Only For Marine Fish Lovers

Coolest Fish in House

2009-03-15T23:49:00.002+07:00

After a 14-year hiatus of keeping mandarins, I must admit, they are slowly creeping up on my list of favorite fish.

My motivation is being driven partly by photography; I have a vision. You know the images of dozens of Tridacna clams in different colors and sizes, squished together with their mantles touching? Yep, I want a picture of mandarins; Greens and Spotteds, all captive-raised and squished together to form a puzzle your grandfather couldn’t figure out. A picture that says “Wow”.

Coolest Fish in the House

But, as always, a vision is far from the final product, so I thought I would share a bit of my struggle to get the image. It hasn’t happened yet, but I am hopeful and continue to snap some shots along the way.

Though somewhat similar to the Greens, Spotteds offer something entirely different. At first, it is the color and psychedelic pattern of this fish that commands attention. Mint green with orange bullseyes, a striking fish for sure. But, after a time, it is their personality that shines through and earns them a spot on the list of family favorites. Both species of mandarins are undeniably popular in the aquarium trade, but recently, my Spotteds hold the rank of coolest fish in the house.

The spotted mandarins sleep together, perched in the same rock, every night. They forage the tank side by side and are quite active in hunting frozen foods from the water column. Spotteds seem a bit easier to train to frozen fare and often take frozen mysids straight out of the pet shop.

Sure, weaning is sometimes necessary and the "Matt Pedersen, Put Them in a Breeder Box and Feed Them Live ''Artemia'' Until They Take Frozen Trick" works wonders. (See: Breeding the Green Mandarin.)
http://microcosmaqx.typepad.com/matt_wittenrich/aquariums/.

When do Spotted Mandarins Get Their Spots?

2009-03-15T23:38:00.001+07:00

Over the past several months I have learned a great deal about the behaviors and breeding of mandarinfishes (Synchiropus spp.), also known as dragonets. Mostly, I have learned that I want to know more.

Each new day brings a new challenge, a new question and more insight into the secret world of these fascinating fishes.

My first spawn of Spotted Mandarins (Synchiropus picturatus) are now around 40 days old and growing quite nicely. From afar they seem similar to the Green Mandarins at the same age. They are mostly a mottled tan color with an intricate pattern of dark browns and blacks. When the light hits their eyes just right they glow fluorescent green, giving the somber background color a bit more flair.

The head of juvenile Spotted Mandarins are more pointed and streamlined than the round and blunt heads of greens and when you look closely they just look mad. In fact, when you stare at the bottom of the tank long enough, juvenile spotteds are a handful and can be very rowdy fishes. They are constantly chasing each other around and perform combat circles quite frequently. No harm ever comes from these squabbles, but it goes to show that these little ones certainly take their feeding territory seriously.

When I first stocked the eggs into the rearing tank I counted the eggs volumetrically and estimated I started with roughly 80 eggs. Once again, similar to the Green Mandarins, I ended up with a surplus. A few days ago I counted 128 Spotted Mandarin juveniles hopping on the bottom of the rearing tank. I am very excited about this batch of captive mandarins and am crossing my fingers that they turn mint green with bright orange bullseyes soon. I haven’t attempted to wean this batch to prepared foods yet as I am hoping they will color up faster with copepods and enriched Artemia. My goal of creating an intricate collage of captive-breds of both species is ever closer.

Spotted Mandarins Graduate to Nano-Reef

2009-03-15T23:32:00.004+07:00

Spotted Mandarins Graduate to Nano-Reef

It has been a little over three months since I stocked my first spawn of Spotted Mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus) eggs into a barren rearing tank.

Forty days after hatching they looked like mandarins, but were still far from revealing the adult colors so appealing of the species.

I brought a handful of the juveniles to show off at MACNA (the Marine Aquarium Conference of North America in Atlanta) since they were starting to reveal some intricate patterns and bold colors, but they were a bit too small for most observers to find and appreciate.

When I got back to my lab, I grabbed a small net full of the mint-green juveniles and snapped a few photos. Instead of putting them back into the rearing tank, however, I decided to take them home to a nano tank and see if I could coax them into eating prepared foods. The nano tank is home to a few juvenile green mandarins fully trained to accept a 'mush' of prepared foods.

Within minutes, the little spotteds became active explorers and began pecking at the substrate. Over the next few days the juveniles began accepting prepared foods with vigor. My growing tank of captive-bred mandarins remains peaceful, easily fed, and becomes more colorful each day. It's quite amazing, considering that just a few months ago I was firmly convinced that mandarinfishes were poor candidates for the aquarium life, let alone captive breeding.http://microcosmaqx.typepad.com/matt_wittenrich/aquariums/.

Lighting for Reef Aquariums: Factors that Influence Coral Coloration

2009-03-14T17:29:00.003+07:00

There are many environmental reasons why corals may change color. However, in home reef aquariums, the most common cause of dramatic color change is due to lighting.

Corals react to light by adjusting the number of cells responsible for utilizing light, as well as the pigments that provide protection from strong light. What we perceive as color change is, in fact, the coral's natural response to a particular light source. Corals will strive to achieve a balance where the number of cells and amount of pigment matches the corals' needs for both nutrition and protection.

Light intensity and coral color

Many corals have the ability to adapt to different light intensities. For example, certain photosynthetic corals possess special, light sensitive cells called zooxanthellae cells. These symbiotic cells contain chlorophyll and provide nutrients to the coral in exchange for protection. To ensure a continuous source of necessary nutrients, the host coral regulates the number of zooxanthellae cells and amount of chlorophyll within those cells. One of the basic criteria for zooxanthellae cell and chlorophyll regulation is light intensity.

So how does zooxanthellae cells and chlorophyll concentration affect coral coloration? These cells range in color from a golden-yellow to brown and large numbers of these cells give the coral a brown appearance. In other words, light intensity alters the color of photosynthetic corals by affecting the concentration of both zooxanthellae cells and the amount of chlorophyll present within those cells.

Therefore, in less intense lighting conditions, photosynthetic corals will appear darker brown since the corals host more zooxanthellae cells to produce more nutrients. If the same coral is placed under intense lighting, zooxanthellae cells will be expelled and the reduced amount of chlorophyll will give the coral a lighter appearance.

Color change due to light spectrum
The light spectrum, or Kelvin rating, of aquarium lighting will also alter the appearance of corals. In general, bulbs with lower Kelvin ratings will cast a "warmer" yellow light while bulbs with higher Kelvin ratings will produce a bright, crisp, white to blue light. Different light fixtures with different spectrum bulbs impart varying color effects on corals. For example, bulbs that emit light heavy in the actinic blue range bring out dazzling fluorescent colors not visible under full spectrum daylight bulbs. While different hobbyists prefer different combinations of light spectrums, a typical lighting system for a reef aquarium consists of 50% white light with a high Kelvin rating and 50% blue, actinic light.

Color change due to UV light
In nature, ultraviolet light waves (UV-A and UV-B) penetrate the ocean's surface but are filtered out as the light travels through the water. Both UV-A and UV-B light waves have been found to cause destruction of DNA and RNA within coral tissue. In response, many corals have made adaptations to reduce the effects of these harmful rays. These corals developed protective pigments that are often blue, purple, or pink in color. Most corals that contain these pigments come from shallow waters where the amount of UV-A and UV-B light is higher than in deeper areas of the reef.

In home reef aquariums that rely on metal halide lighting, it is important to protect corals from UV light. Coral without these protective pigments as well as shallow water corals that may have lost their pigments during transportation are especially susceptible to the effects of UV light. Fortunately, preventing any UV light from entering the aquarium is as simple as employing glass aquarium canopies and making sure the protective glass lens on the metal halide fixture is properly installed.

It is not uncommon for corals with these bright colors to adjust to the lower UV-A and UV-B conditions found within home aquariums. The loss of colorful pigmentation is not necessarily a sign of an unhealthy coral - it is simply a normal coral adjusting to its new environment.

It is a common misconception among many hobbyists that color changes in newly received coral is an indication of unhealthy coral. Many times the color change is merely the result of corals adjusting to the new lighting intensity, spectrum, and change in UV light. With this in mind, it is important to consider the color of newly received corals and understand their lighting requirements. Be sure to properly acclimate corals to new lighting conditions and allow time for them to establish their coloration.

REFERENCES
Borneman, E. Aquarium Corals, T.F.H. Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ; 2001.

Delbeek, JC; Sprung, J. The Reef Aquarium Vol. 1. Ricordea Publishing. Coconut Grove, FL; 1994.

Tullock, J. Natural Reef Aquariums. T.F.H. Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ; 2001.

To Cure Live reefs

2009-03-14T17:21:00.002+07:00

Thanks to its vibrant colors, interesting inhabitants, and water clarification benefits, live rock continues to grow in popularity among aquarists. Each year, aquarists add thousands of pounds of live rock to new or existing reef aquariums. Live rock, while a huge benefit to reef aquariums, requires you to perform a few extra steps - especially curing - to ensure the health of your reef inhabitants.

What is live rock?
Live rock is actually small pieces of old coral reefs that were naturally broken off during storms or by wave action. These pieces then washed into shallower water where they were colonized with naturally occurring marine life - invertebrates, corals, sponges, and millions of beneficial nitrifying bacteria. All varieties of live rock available on LiveAquaria.com are harvested with the highest ethical standards and removed passively from the ocean floor - not manually broken off of any live or existing reefs.

Where does live rock come from?
Live rock can come from anywhere in the ocean. The varieties of live rock found on LiveAquaria.com come primarily from the pristine waters of the Indo-Pacific area, with the majority coming from Fiji.

Must I cure my live rock?
You must cure your live rock, even if it arrives precured. Precured live rock is harvested, then continually sprayed with a mist of sea water and scrubbed to remove unwanted debris. The spray tends to drive out unwanted species such as bristle worms and mantis shrimp. Uncured live rock contains a wider variety of organisms. Either type of rock can work great in your home reef aquarium. Regardless of whether your rock arrives uncured or precured, you must cure your rock in its new aquarium.

Why must I cure my live rock?
Live rock must be cured to allow the plant and marine life - especially sponges which were living on the rock - to undergo a natural die back without polluting the aquarium water. This die back occurs in all transported live rock and is necessary to provide a solid foundation for the remaining species to grow and flourish. As the organisms on the rock go through a die back, they will produce a large amount of waste material and cause toxic levels of ammonia to be released into the aquarium. Most of the very beneficial nitrifying bacteria survive the curing process by hiding deep in the pores and crevices of the live rock. In addition, some of the corals and invertebrates will also not die off completely and will begin to re-emerge in the new aquarium over time.

How do I cure my live rock?
While you may cure your live rock in many different ways, the following method has been shown to be very effective. Curing typically takes from one to three weeks.

Place the live rock in a new 30-gallon plastic garbage can.
Cover the rock completely with freshly mixed saltwater.
Use a heater to keep the water temperature near 80 degrees to speed die off.
Create constant water movement with a powerhead or air stone.
Keep the area dimly lit to prevent algae blooms.
Perform 100% water changes twice a week.
Scrub the rock between water changes to remove dead material.
Consider adding bottom drains to the container to speed draining and water changes.
Check water quality and test for ammonia. When ammonia tests are negative, the rock is safe for your aquarium.

What happens if I don't cure it properly?
If you add improperly cured rock to your aquarium too quickly, it will still be in the process of a die back, which can harm (if not kill) existing tank inhabitants with toxic levels of ammonia. In addition, if you do not maintain proper aeration and temperature during the curing process, then high levels of beneficial nitrifying bacteria will die, reducing the initial effectiveness of the rock as a biological filter. Live rock is not difficult to cure properly and the benefits of high quality live rock are well worth the effort. Be sure to follow the simple steps above, and you can be confident that you are adding clean, healthy live rock to your aquarium.

Few Fish Pics

2009-03-14T17:06:00.001+07:00

Angelfish, Large Marine

Pseudochromis and Dottyback Fish

Wrasse - Fish-Only Tanks

Miscellaneous Fish

Live Foods

New Arrival Acclimation Guide

2009-03-14T16:55:00.004+07:00

Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff
http://www.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=157

You've invested valuable time and money researching the habitat requirements of the fish and corals you wish to house. Naturally, you want to protect this investment by executing a proper acclimation process once the specimens arrive at your door

The purpose of acclimation is simple: the water that the fish or corals are packaged in has different temperature, pH, and salinity parameters than your aquarium. Fish, and especially invertebrates (including corals), are very sensitive to even minor changes in these parameters, so proper acclimation is the key to ensuring their successful relocation.

We recommend either of the two acclimation methods explained below, and wish to remind you the acclimation process should never be rushed. Also, remember to keep your aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the specimens are introduced into the aquarium to help them further adjust.

Though not a requirement of our acclimation procedures, we highly recommend that all aquatic life be quarantined in a separate aquarium for a period of two weeks to reduce the possibility of introducing diseases and parasites into your aquarium and to ensure they are accepting food, eating properly, and are in optimum health before their final transition to your main display.

Floating Method

Turn off aquarium lights.
Dim the lights in the room where the shipping box will be opened. Never open the box in bright light - severe stress or trauma may result from sudden exposure to bright light.
Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes (Fig. A). Never open the shipping bag at this time. This step allows the water in the shipping bag to adjust slowly to the temperature in the aquarium, while maintaining a high level of dissolved oxygen.
After floating the sealed shipping bag for 15 minutes, cut open the bag just under the metal clip (Fig. B) and roll the top edge of the bag down one inch to create an air pocket within the lip of the bag. This will enable the bag to float on the surface of the water (Fig. C). For heavy pieces of live coral that will submerge the shipping bag, place the bag containing the coral in a plastic bowl or specimen container.
Add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag (Fig. D).
Repeat step 5 every four minutes until the shipping bag is full.
Lift the shipping bag from the aquarium and discard half the water from the bag (Fig. E).
Float the shipping bag in the aquarium again and proceed to add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag every four minutes until the bag is full.
Net aquatic life from the shipping bag and release into the aquarium (Fig. F).
Remove the filled shipping bag from the aquarium and discard the water. Never release shipping water directly into the aquarium.

Drip Method
This method is considered more advanced. It is geared toward sensitive inhabitants such as corals, shrimp, sea stars, and wrasses. You will need airline tubing and must be willing to monitor the entire process. Gather a clean, 3 or 5-gallon bucket designated for aquarium use only. If acclimating both fish and invertebrates, use a separate bucket for each.

Start with Steps 1-3 of the floating method to acclimate water temperature.
Carefully empty the contents of the bags (including the water) into the buckets (Fig. G), making sure not to expose sensitive invertebrates to the air. Depending on the amount of water in each bag, this may require tilting the bucket at a 45 degree angle to make sure the animals are fully submerged (Fig. H). You may need a prop or wedge to help hold the bucket in this position until there is enough liquid in the bucket to put it back to a level position.
Using airline tubing, set up and run a siphon drip line from the main aquarium to each bucket. You’ll need separate airline tubing for each bucket used. Tie several loose knots in the airline tubing, or use a plastic or other non-metal airline control valve, (Fig. I), to regulate flow from the aquarium. It is also a good idea to secure the airline tubing in place with an airline holder. The Doctors Foster and Smith Acclimation Kit is a convenient alternative that simplifies the drip acclimation process.
Begin a siphon by sucking on the end of the airline tubing you'll be placing into each of the buckets. When water begins flowing through the tubing, adjust the drip (by tightening one of the knots or adjusting the control valve) to a rate of about 2-4 drips per second (Fig. J).
When the water volume in the bucket doubles, discard half and begin the drip again until the volume doubles once more – about one hour.
At this point, the specimens can be transferred to the aquarium. Sponges, clams, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Gently scoop them out of the drip bucket with the specimen bag, making sure they’re fully covered in water. Submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and gently remove the specimen from the bag. Next, seal off the bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted water will escape into the aquarium; this is O.K. Also, to avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of live coral when handling.

NOTE: Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to changes in specific gravity. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result. Test specific gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer.

Important Facts

Be patient - never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arrival should take no longer than one hour.
Always follow the acclimation procedure even if your new arrival appears to be dead. Some fish and invertebrates can appear as though they are dead when they arrive and will usually revive when the above procedure is followed correctly.
Never place an airstone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will increase the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.
Keep aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new arrival is introduced into the aquarium.
Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to salinity changes. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result.
Sponges, clams, scallops, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the acclimation procedure, but instead of netting the specimen out of the shipping bag, submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the marine life from the bag. Seal off the shipping bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the shipping bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted shipping water will escape into the aquarium. Don't be alarmed; this will have no adverse affect on the tank inhabitants.
In some instances, your new tank mate will be chased and harassed by one or all of your existing tank mates.

Solution 1: A plastic spaghetti strainer (found at your local discount store) can be used to contain a tank bully within the aquarium for several hours until the new arrival adjusts to its surroundings. Just float the perforated plastic basket in the aquarium. Net the tank bully and place in the floating basket for approximately four hours while the new arrival adjusts to your aquarium. Never place the new arrival in this basket; the new specimen must get familiar with your aquarium. By placing the tank bully in a perforated basket, you'll reduce the stress on your newest tank mate.

Solution 2: A perforated plastic lighting grid can be purchased at your local hardware store to cut down the width of your aquarium. This grid may be used to section off a small portion of the aquarium to separate territorial or aggressive fish from the newest tank mate. After the new addition adjusts to the unfamiliar environment, the divider can be removed.
Some live corals produce excess slime when shipped. After the acclimation procedure is followed, hold the coral by the rock or skeletal base and gently shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of a live coral. Many species of coral will not open for several days after introduction into their new home. Please allow several days for the coral to adapt to the new conditions in the aquarium.

Top 10 Tips for Small Aquarium Success

2009-03-14T16:50:00.004+07:00

Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff

Whether you're establishing your first aquarium, or expanding your hobby experience with a new niche system, small aquariums, approximately 30 gallons or less, make a rewarding and relaxing project at home or in the office.

A nano aquarium's compact footprint make it a perfect fit for that empty corner or bare wall, and with the advances in multi-stage filtration and compact fluorescent lighting, maintaining a thriving freshwater or marine system is easier than ever.

But, small-volume aquariums also demand special attention, because changes in water quality, temperature, and fish stress levels become more pronounced in aquariums less than 30 gallons. With patience, research, and a little extra diligence, you too can create a beautiful, healthy nano-system. Here are some tips to get started:

Pick a Kit - A hobbyist's best bet is to get a foolproof aquarium kit with integrated filtration and lighting built-in. That way, every component is a perfect fit, and you'll just need to decide on an appropriate heater. The most popular 12-gallon aquarium kits include the classic Eclipse System Twelve, the AquaPod and the Nano Cube. These aquariums feature stylish bowfront designs with panoramic viewing.

	Place Wisely - Though you may be tempted to position your compact aquarium on a desktop or office cabinet, remember that even a 12-gallon aquarium weighs over 120 lbs when filled! Invest in an appropriate aquarium stand that's built to bear the load and humidity. You'll be rewarded with peace of mind - and extra storage space too!
	Choose a Theme - Focus your aquascaping and stocking plans around a specific region, species, or community grouping. This will make it easier to keep your water parameters on target for all inhabitants, and the familiar surroundings you provide - including shelter and breeding structures - will keep stress levels to a minimum. Learn More >
	Stock Small & Sparse - Restraint and patience are a small aquarium hobbyist's best friends. Avoid overpopulating your aquarium or you'll find water quality very difficult to keep viable. Also, when establishing a new system, introduce only a few fish at a time over several weeks - if not months. Select the smallest fish possible, building your community around a small school, one or two showcase fish, and a modest group of bottom cleaners. Learn More >
	Go Live for Natural Filtration - Let nature work for your aquarium's health. For best results with minimum external filtration, avoid artificial plants and structures. Instead, consider live plants and eco-complete gravel for freshwater aquariums, and live rock or sand for your nano reef.
	Brighten your Eclipse - Many Eclipse System Twelve hobbyists who want to see even better results in plant or reef growth choose to upgrade the wattage of their hood lighting. Fortunately, retrofit kits built specifically for the task are easy to find and install.
	Test/Observe Daily - Small-volume aquariums experience accelerated cycles in water quality, making daily testing and observation an absolute necessity. Fish behavior - gasping, hiding, drifting, or darting - is your best indicator of other "invisible" health dangers to be concerned about. Also, keep some 5-in-1 Quick Dip Test Strips near your aquarium for "ballpark" parameter checks. If some Nitrate, Nitrite, or pH levels concern you, zero-in on the problem with more accurate, pro-grade Test Kits. Learn More >
	Frequent Partial Water Changes - In nature, rain and water currents refresh water conditions by diluting and carrying away toxins before they can build up to excessive levels. The best thing you can do for your inhabitants' health is to change their water - 10% to 20% - once a week. This is especially important if you're pushing the population limit, or are keeping fish with larger bio-loads. Learn More >
	Change Media Often - To avoid the scourge of algae and to keep your fish healthy and stress free, change your filter media according to the manufacturer's guidelines. If you're inattentive to regular filter maintenance, some chemical media, as it becomes exhausted and saturated, may begin seeping the excess toxins back into your aquarium!
	Act Fast When Problems Arise - In small enclosed ecosystems, little problems become big problems fast. The bio-wheel you noticed has stopped turning, that little white spot on your Gourami, the Nitrite level which tested high... waiting even a day to take action could lead to your entire system crashing. Observe daily, test often, and always remedy the problems you discover within the same day. The health of your aquatic life depends on it!

Step by Step Reef Aquarium

2009-03-14T16:26:00.001+07:00

Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff

Setting up a Reef Aquarium . . .
in 5 Easy Steps
If you've ever dreamed of having a spectacular reef aquarium in your home, but think you lack the time, funds, or knowledge required, think again! Creating a beautiful reef ecosystem does not have to be complicated. The following five easy steps will help simplify the process. In a period of just 12 weeks, you too can enjoy the colorful beauty of a home reef aquarium for many years

Products used:

46" Bowfront Stand
46 Gallon Bowfront System II Aquarium (including built-in filtration)
36" Dual Satellite Compact Fluorescent Fixture or a comparable light fixture
100W Visi-Therm heater
Coralife Power Center
Two, 20-lb bags of Indo Pacific Black Sand
50-gal mix of Tropic Marin salt
36# of Select Lalo live rock
22# of Select Premium Fiji live rock
Prizm Skimmer

STEP 1
Week 1: Assemble the Aquarium and Cure the Live Rock

Pour the sand into the aquarium.
Prepare saltwater in a mixing container so that the specific gravity measures 1.025.
Carefully fill aquarium with the prepared saltwater.
Gently rinse live rock in a small bucket of prepared saltwater. Remove loose organic debris and examine carefully for unwanted hitchhikers. Arrange the live rock in your aquarium as desired.
Install aquarium equipment per manufacturer's instructions. Run the protein skimmer and main filtration system to make sure there is constant water movement. However, keep the lighting system off during the cycling period in order to reduce the likelihood of undesirable algae growth.
For the next 4 weeks, perform a 50% water change each week to properly cure your live rock. During your water change, siphon out any loose organic matter. Test for ammonia and nitrite and make sure these levels are zero. Also, test the pH and adjust as needed to achieve the desired level of 8.1-8.4.

STEP 2
Week 4: Add your First Inhabitants

You will need:

30 gallon Deluxe Algae Attack Pack (various snails and crabs)

STEP 3
Week 6: Add your First Corals

You will need:

Beginner Coral Pack (contains Button Polyp, Yellow Colony Polyp, Hairy Mushroom Coral, and Bullseye Mushroom Coral)

STEP 4
Week 8: Add Aquacultured Corals

You will need:

Silver Branch Pumping Xenia
Regular Pumping Xenia
Starburst Polyps
Colony Polyps
Cauliflower Colt Coral
Taro Tree Coral
Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral
Spaghetti Finger Leather Coral

STEP 5
Weeks 10 and 12: Add Fish & Invertebrates
Add 2 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, 3 Hawaii Feather Dusters, and a total of 6 fish. Choose from:

Ocellaris Clownfish (Multiples ok)
Fridmani Pseudochromis (Only 1)
Six-line Wrasse (Only 1)
Green Chromis (Multiples ok)
Kaudern's Cardinalfish (Multiples ok)

Maintaining Your Reef Ecosystem

Monitor and test water parameters regularly to provide a healthy marine environment.
Perform 25% water changes at least once a month and perform regular filter maintenance.
Feed thawed small amounts of frozen food, twice daily. The fish should be able to finish the given portion of frozen food within a few minutes. For a nutritionally balanced diet, feed a variety of foods to your fish such as: Mysis shrimp, Ocean Plankton, Mega-Marine Algae, TetraMarine Granules, and Sea Veggies. Provide Phytoplankton every other week for feather dusters and other filter feeding invertebrates.

For healthy corals, add the following reef supplements per recommended instructions:

By following these steps, you'll have a complete and successful reef aquarium. Sit back and watch in awe as your aquarium comes alive. Each day there will be new things to discover and an unending diversity of changes to witness. Keep in mind, reef aquariums need considerable time to balance themselves. Within a year, you'll have a beautiful, thriving ecosystem.

Here is our reef aquarium after 1 year:

Aquarium Essentials Overview (this time is for fresh water)

2009-03-14T16:20:00.008+07:00

FILTER
Your filter is your most important piece of aquarium equipment.Filters penguin BIO-Wheel Series are excellent filters that provide efficient biological filtration help maintain aquarium water quality by efficiently removing harmful materials from your aquarium. Without proper filtration, your aquarium will not be able to sustain life. Your filter should offer three-stage mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. For convenient filter selection, filters are rated for a particular aquarium size, based on a light-to-average fish load, and have a gallon-per-hour (gph) rating. The gph rating determines how many gallons of aquarium water pass through the filter per hour. In general, the filter should turn over the total water volume at least three to five times an hour. For example, a 20-gallon aquarium should be equipped with a filter rated at least 60-100 gph.

HEATER
Stable water temperature is necessary for the health of your aquarium system. Aquarium heater manufacturers include suggested aquarium size for each heater. But as a general rule, you will need a heater that provides approximately 3 to 5 watts for each aquarium gallon. Therefore, a 50-watt heater will suffice for aquariums between 10 to 15 gallons. The Jager Temperature Sensor Heater is a great choice for accurate and reliable performance. In addition to a heater, a thermometer such as the ATI Thermometer is necessary for monitoring water temperature. Better yet, consider the Coralife Digital Thermometer for convenient and easy-to-read daily monitoring of aquarium water temperature.
LIGHTING
Aquarium serves two fundamental purposes. It illuminates the aquarium for your aesthetic enjoyment of the inhabitants and decorations and provides functional light crucial for photosynthetic life in the aquarium. In general, a fish-only community aquarium requires 1 to 2 watts of lighting per gallon. For example, a 30-watt, fluorescent light fixture is appropriate for aquariums from 15-30 gallons. If you plan to have plants, you'll need to use a light fixture that provides 2 to 5 watts of lighting per gallon.
CHLORINE REMOVER
Most tap water is not suitable for aquarium use without the addition of aquarium. Tap water may contain chlorine, chloramine, or other chemicals harmful to aquarium fish. Before tap water is used for aquarium purposes, condition it with a chlorine or chloramine remover like Water Repair™ Series: Neutralize.

TEST KITS
Test Kits are essential for monitoring important aquarium water parameters such as pH, ammonia, and nitrite. Regular routine testing lets you know if the aquarium water is within an acceptable range for healthy aquarium inhabitants. Test strips like the Quick Dip Complete Water Quality Test Kit measure multiple water parameters to provide fast and convenient test results for the beginning hobbyist.

SUBSTRATE AND DECORATIONS
In addition to decorative benefits, aquarium substrate assists aquarium filtration by providing microorganisms and beneficial bacteria a place to colonize. Establish a 1-2 inch layer of substrate or gravel in the aquarium for best results. For a 1 inch bed, you will need roughly 1 lb of aquarium substrate per gallon or 2 lbs per gallon for a 2 inch bed. For freshwater community aquariums, consider decorative, non-buffering substrate made of non-reacting material to minimize pH fluctuation.

Don't forget decorations such as driftwood, sunken ships, artificial coral, and more, to personalize and add the finishing touches to your aquarium.

THE FRESHWATER COMMUNITY AQUARIUM
AQUARIUM ESSENTIAL	WHY YOU NEED IT	WHAT IT DOES
Filter	For water purity and quality	Takes out visible particles, breaks down toxic substances, and removes harmful chemicals in aquariums
Heater	To stabilize water temperature for the health of fish	Warms water to maintain water temperatures preferred by tropical fish
Thermometer	To monitor water temperature and heater accuracy	"At a glance" temperature readings for convenient monitoring
Lighting	For viewing aquarium inhabitants or for healthy live plants	Brings out extraordinary colors in the aquarium and facilitates the growth of live plants
Chlorine & Chloramine Removers	To eliminate harmful chemicals from tap water	Neutralizes chlorine and chloramine to make tap water safe for aquarium use
Test Kits	To monitor water quality	Measures vital water parameters to help maintain ideal water quality
Substrate	For decorative purposes and to help supplement aquarium filtration	Improves the look of your aquarium and provides habitat for beneficial microorganisms
Decorations	Optional, but improves appearance	Gives your aquarium setup personality and enhances the aquarium experience

Types of Saltwater Aquariums

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FISH-ONLY MARINE AQUARIUMS

Saltwater aquariums can be grouped into three basic types – fish-only aquariums, fish-only-with-live-rock aquariums, and reef aquariums. Among these three types, the most basic marine setup is the fish-only (FO) aquarium.

Fish-only aquariums, as their name implies, are designed to house and showcase marine fish. Since the fish are the center of attention, FO aquariums are sparsely decorated, often with coral skeletons or Like any aquarium setup, maintaining proper water parameters and employing efficient is key.

The availability of beautiful and hardy marine fish such as, yellow,and adds to the success of FO aquariums. The fish-only aquarium is a great setup for the dedicated beginner interested in marine aquariums. This saltwater setup allows novice hobbyists to "get their feet wet" and become familiar with equipment, water parameters, fish, and the maintenance of marine aquariums.

FOWLER AQUARIUMS (Fish-only-with-live-rock)
Fish-only-with-live-rock (FOWLR) aquariums can be described as a blend or a stepping stone that bridges FO aquariums and reef aquariums. While marine fish are still the focus of FOWLR aquariums, basic elements of the reef aquarium are introduced – most notably, live rock. Live rock is fragmented pieces of old coral reefs naturally colonized by a variety of marine life including invertebrates, sponges, and millions of beneficial nitrifying bacteria. This rock, teeming with beneficial life, provides excellent supplemental filtration and helps maintain stable water parameters. Live rock adds a new dimension to the aesthetics and care to the basic marine aquarium. Special considerations for FOWLR setups include proper curing or acclimation of live rock, additional light or supplements to cultivate desirable coralline algae, and the restriction of many medications that harm beneficial life found in live rock.

REEF MARINE AQUARIUMS
The most challenging and expensive of the marine aquariums, reef aquariums are stocked primarily with corals and other invertebrates, with little or no fish. The corals and invertebrates are the stars of a reef aquarium. Since marine invertebrates are very sensitive to water conditions, water parameters must be monitored on a regular basis to maintain pristine conditions. Also, many corals are photosynthetic and require proper lighting to survive. The inhabitants of reef aquariums require special attention, so it is crucial to research lighting, water movement, supplementation, and other requirements.

TIPS FOR SALTWATER AQUARIUM SUCCESS
Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff
http://www.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=223

Fish-only aquariums, as their name implies, are designed to house and showcase marine fish. Since the fish are the center of attention, FO aquariums are sparsely decorated, often with coral skeletons or Like any aquarium setup, maintaining proper water parameters and employing efficient is key.

The availability of beautiful and hardy marine fish such as, yellow,and adds to the success of FO aquariums. The fish-only aquarium is a great setup for the dedicated beginner interested in marine aquariums. This saltwater setup allows novice hobbyists to "get their feet wet" and become familiar with equipment, water parameters, fish, and the maintenance of marine aquariums.

FOWLR AQUARIUMS (Fish-only-with-live-rock)
Fish-only-with-live-rock (FOWLR) aquariums can be described as a blend or a stepping stone that bridges FO aquariums and reef aquariums. While marine fish are still the focus of FOWLR aquariums, basic elements of the reef aquarium are introduced – most notably, live rock. Live rock is fragmented pieces of old coral reefs naturally colonized by a variety of marine life including invertebrates, sponges, and millions of beneficial nitrifying bacteria. This rock, teeming with beneficial life, provides excellent supplemental filtration and helps maintain stable water parameters. Live rock adds a new dimension to the aesthetics and care to the basic marine aquarium. Special considerations for FOWLR setups include proper curing or acclimation of live rock, additional light or supplements to cultivate desirable coralline algae, and the restriction of many medications that harm beneficial life found in live rock.

REEF MARINE AQUARIUMS
The most challenging and expensive of the marine aquariums, reef aquariums are stocked primarily with corals and other invertebrates, with little or no fish. The corals and invertebrates are the stars of a reef aquarium. Since marine invertebrates are very sensitive to water conditions, water parameters must be monitored on a regular basis to maintain pristine conditions. Also, many corals are photosynthetic and require proper lighting to survive. The inhabitants of reef aquariums require special attention, so it is crucial to research lighting, water movement, supplementation, and other requirements.

TIPS FOR SALTWATER AQUARIUM SUCCESS
	Learn as much as you can about the individual fish and invertebrates that interest you.
	Choose fish and invertebrates suitable for your experience level. Avoid difficult-to-care-for species with poor success rates in captivity.
	Supplement filtration with a protein skimmer to ensure excellent water quality.
	Practice patience. Proceed slowly to ensure stable water parameters. Stock your aquarium gradually over a period of a few months.

WATER PARAMETERS
Parameter	Suggested Level FO	Suggested Level FOWLR	Suggested Level Reef
Specific Gravity	1.020-1.025	1.020-1.025	1.023-1.025
Temperature	72-78°F	72-78°F	72-78°F
pH	8.1-8.4	8.1-8.4	8.1-8.4
Alkalinity	8-12 dKH	8-12 dKH	8-12 dKH
Ammonia (NH3)	Undetectable	Undetectable	Undetectable
Nitrite (NO2)	Undetectable	Undetectable	Undetectable
Nitrate – Nitrogen (NO3)	<>	<>	<>
Phosphate (PO4)	<>	<>	<>
Calcium	350-450 ppm	350-450 ppm	350-450 ppm
Magnesium	1150-1350 ppm	1150-1350 ppm	1250-1350 ppm
Iodine	0.04-0.10 ppm	0.04-0.10 ppm	0.06-0.10 ppm
Strontium	4-10 ppm	4-10 ppm	8-14 ppm

water creature at home

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Keeping ornamental fish water sea actually quite easy.
Mostly only requiring a little knowledge and learning to be able to truly enjoy the world under the sea and the beautiful colors of this. Here are some simple tips so that your aquarium water can remain beautiful for a long period of time.

1. Do not ever, put marine fish to enter the new aquarium during setup process.To ensure aquarium conditions near its original circumstances, we should create a "Nitrogen Cycle". the circulated aquarium water will generate bacteria that support marine life (aerob and anaerob). This new bacterium will appears about 4 weeks.
Tips: For the beginning you can put some Damsel fish who had stronger in durability to be lived in the water that has not been perfectly circulated.choose yellow damsel because this is less aggressive (another damsel more aggressive). Select the small one for consideration.

2. Make sure to put limited fish inside, and consider the room of the aquarium.
Too many fish can make fish stress and die easily. Providing food also must be considering the environment inside, for example if we have less fish we have to pay attention to the fish about its behavior, what time usually the fish can finish its meal daily average. This can prevent dirt will accumulate and water quality will decrease, and the fish could be dead easily. for more fish, aquarium needs to be looked after by professional and experienced aquarist.
Tips: Choose only the few most beautiful fish that you like most.

3. New fish must be acclimatized
New Fish has to put in a new plastic bag first, temperature should be adjusted with the aquarium temperature,put plastic fish in the aquarium for 20 minutes. After the plastic open, enter the aquarium water a little bit in plastic , settle it for 10 minutes. After that, the fish can be added to aquarium. Turn off the lamp first in order not to make the fish get stressed.

4. Put the food 1 time a day only.
For fish, better less than more. 1 time only is sufficient. The excess food will reduce the quality of sea water.

5. Reefing
This is the main weapon of the world experienced aquaris. Use the "Living Reef" as much as possible to maintain water quality naturally. Living coral reefs identified by the many purple partse. Use at least 1 / 3 of the akuarium volume . The price is only Rp 20,000 (USD 2) per stone.

6. Plants, is also very good for maintaining water quality.
Mainly acid grass (Caulerpa Sertularioides), Needle Grass (Chaetomorpha) Green or Wine. Vegetation will help reduce the Nitrate degree.

7. Water change every 2 weeks. Half, 1 months.Water price is not expensive, only Rp 5,000 (50 C) per gallon. Please take 1-2 minutes per 2 weeks to treat your aquarium.

8. Check Ph and salt content.
If Ph is low,use Kalkwasser (you can find it in marine aquarium store).Ph is easy to check, only put the akuarium water a little bit to test, and drops the liquid tester. Then compare the color of water with a PH colored paper (litmus paper) . The price test tool Ph its moderately expensive (Rp 80,000 - 85,000) (USD 8-8.5), but can be reused.
Check salinity Hydrometer. The price is Rp 20,000 (USD 2). Salinity that is normal can be checked in the device .

9. If you have more funds, the first tool that should be purchased is a Protein Skimmer.
This is a significant tool for maintaining the quality of sea water. It costs about Rp 300,000 (USD 30).

10. Buy 5 shrimp tails (Lysmata amboinensis). Shrimp is very useful because they like to eat Whitespot bacteria that sometimes appear on the fish. Keeping fish a little more difficult from the normal water. Fish are very sensitive to the environment. Particularly water quality, and a fellow of the aquarium. But if knowledge is good enough, then you will be able to enjoy the beauty of the sea and pits living creature in your home.

Intro

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teras literally means empty spaces in front of the doors, that have many function for the living inside. This empty spaces can attract anyone to visit or to release heat from inside.yet, here in Indonesia this empty room is magnificently treated as healing spaces for those who needs fresh air as long as he or she has fresh mind.

So how do you think about healing method? do you think medicine and pharmacy is enough? well, as I remember my mom say, back home after you play and you will find yourself clean and recharge (of course after she took me to bathroom) and this is crucial, what do you define about home? a place to go back? a place when you can release your burden? its all right, to me home is the place when we can be welcomed in open hands, and feels the harmony of our beloved mother and family, a big family of nature, a big family of earth.
So yes, you will find peace only when you can share peace also to your surroundings.

may god bless you,

mod's